Masterclass with Peter Gilmore at Quay, The Rocks, Sydney (16 Apr 2012)

Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Sydney NSW 2000
http://www.quay.com.au

The Quay is in the cooking

Thanks to Katrina Parker from Open Haus for inviting me to the Winter Produce Masterclass with Chef Peter Gilmore at Quay. Ever since October 2008 when I first visited Quay for a Let's Do Lunch I've been wanting to revisit but haven't had the chance. The event was hosted by Electrolux but surprisingly they didn't do a hard sell on their kitchen equipment which Peter was using like the Combination Steam Oven and Induction Cooktop. Perhaps the equipment is so impressive it simply sells itself? Peter first showed how to cook his Savoury Gouda custard with Autumn mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts which had nice earthy flavours although I wasn't quite sure about the addition of the hazelnuts since I already thought there was enough crunch in the dish from the tasty Jerusalem artichoke crisps — but that's just me. Next he demonstrated the Slow braised crisp skinned pork belly with prunes, sherry and cauliflower cream. I was surprised how well the prunes worked in the dish and it's probably best not to ask how much butter was used in the silky smooth cauliflower cream. I learnt some practical tips on how to cook the pork belly to achieve the much sort after crisp skin. If you're interested here's the recipes for these two dishes.

After the cooking demonstration it was time for a five course dinner menu with matching wines. The crusty Sourdough bread from Sonoma was very good and I loved the creamy butter they were using. The first dish was Salad of rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, goat's curd which was beautifully presented sitting on a bed of pomegranate molasses soil and fit for any vege lover to appreciate its unique flavours. I thought the 2010 Pennyweight Gamay was a great match to dish. Next was the Gently poached southern rock lobster, hand caught Tasmanian squid with a silky smooth base of 'lobster velvet' and noticeable seafood flavours coming through in the golden tapioca although I had trouble working out the pieces of lobster from the squid with each bite. Well matched with the 2010 Krinklewood Chardonnay. The Roasted partridge breast came with new season white walnuts possessing a delicate crunch. I wasn't a huge fan of the dish but wondered if a sauce would have persuaded me otherwise. Also I still really can't appreciate what freshly shaved truffle should taste like — it always seems too subtle on my palate.

When the Poached Wagyu beef, oxtail, morel, black pudding, farro, buckwheat, hazelnut, ezekiel crumbs was served I thought it looked like a chocolate fondant which put me off my taste game. It unfortunately was my least favourite dish — sorry Peter. I'm sure there was a lot of cooking technique in it but the outer crumbs texture really didn't appeal to me with the tender beef. I think I would have just preferred a nicely cooked wagyu (from the grill) with a flavoursome red wine jus, silky potato cream and some exquisitely cut seasonal vegetables with an edible flower thrown in for good measure. The dessert on the other hand was a winner for me making it a favourite of the night. Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream had flavours that all work really well together and apparently was a new dessert added to the menu just this week. I loved the addition of the pomelo giving it a pleasant popping texture and taste. For spectacular harbour views it's hard to beat Quay on location and if you get either Miori Shino or Kristian Savio as your waiter you'll be in great hands but I really wish they'd do something about their toilets. Guys, your tackle will be on show with all those mirrors around you when someone walks in unless you seek haven in the cubicle.

Masterclass video highlights

Other visits to Quay:

• 16 Apr 2012 - Masterclass with Peter Gilmore + 5 course dinner

• 23 Oct 2008 - Let’s Do Lunch

SNAPSHOT REVIEW:

PROS: Quality ingredients, Spectacular harbour views, Interesting dishes, Professional and knowledgeable service (Miori & Kristian), Very good wines, Function space available, Peter Gilmore seems like a very down-to-earth celebrity chef that still cooks in the kitchen most days of the week

CONS: Those toilets need a serious design overhaul in my books, Expensive, Being amongst the top 50 restaurants in the world I'm thinking you'll need to book well in advance, The sound of the cutlery on the stone-like plates was a bit like nails on a chalkboard

MUST TRY: Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse with fresh mangosteen, Revisiting one day to try more of the menu when I can afford it

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Welcome drink of Bollinger — pretty special

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Canapés to start

Cooking demonstration courtesy of Electrolux

Savoury Gouda custard with Autumn mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts

Slow braised crisp skinned pork belly with prunes, sherry and cauliflower cream

5 course menu

Sourdough bread from Sonoma

Salad of rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, goat's curd, pomegranate molasses, violet

WORTH TRYING :-)

2010 Pennyweight Gamay, Beechworth Vic

Gently poached southern rock lobster, hand caught Tasmanian squid, golden tapioca, lobster velvet

WORTH TRYING :-)

2010 Krinklewood Chardonnay, Hunter Valley NSW

Roasted partridge breast, steamed truffle brioche, confit egg yolk, new season white walnuts, fumet of Vin Jaune

2010 Thick as Thieves Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley Vic

Poached Wagyu beef, oxtail, morel, black pudding, farro, buckwheat, hazelnut, ezekiel crumbs

2009 Caillard Mataro, Barossa Valley SA

Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Pomelo adds a nice texture to the dessert — not listed on the menu

2011 Brangayne Late Harvest Riesling, Orange NSW

Flat white

Hot chocolate

Seating with a view of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge

Dinner tweeting is such a common sight these days

Table setting

Normal a la carte menu $165 per person for 4 courses

toilet sink — seems way too busy in design
toilet really awkward and uncomfortable placement of mirrors against urinal, too on show

Goodie Bag Quay Recipe Book including herb seeds and petit fours chocolates

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Altitude Restaurant: Fine Dining at 36 Levels Above, The Rocks (4 Jan 2010)

Shangri-la Hotel
Level 36, 176 Cumberland Street, The Rocks NSW 2000
http://www.36levelsabove.com.au

Bollinger for my Birthday

Continuing on from my pre dinner birthday cocktail next door at Blue Bar on 36 I was very spoilt with a surprise birthday dinner at Altitude which I remember has been visited by fellow bloggers like Not Quite Nigella, Pigged-Out and Here Comes The Food. It's been awarded a 1 Hat by the 2010 SMH Good Food Guide Awards and commands one of the best views of Sydney Harbour. I enjoy a glass of Bollinger Champagne for the first time and it's a great start on the palate along with the amuse-bouche of Potato and Leek Veloute with Lemon and Chive Chantilly. I also enjoy a glass of the 2008 Mahi Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough NZ. The Tortellini of Spanner Crab and Sea Scallops catches my eye on the menu and it's a real treat, perfectly cooked and tastes great. The Ceviche of Pink Snapper is well presented although I find the fish texture slightly too stringy and chewy for my liking — not sure if this is due to the type of fish.

For mains my order of Thilmere Duck Breast is very tasty and nicely tender and the Roasted Castricum Lamb is also good. It's nice to see the meals are quite generous in size and I probably could have done without the side of Buttered Mashed Potatoes as the mains were quite rich. Before desserts a complimentary dessert cleanser of Pineapple Pannacotta in a shot glass was served — I think I could have finished here because it was rather thick and rich and not as light as one would expect. My choice of the Valrhona Chocolate Pavé was served as my surprise birthday cake and is wickedly rich for the chocolate lover and nicely plated. The Emaux of Summer Berries on the other hand wasn't particularly enjoyed and I found the lemon curd just too overpowering on the taste buds to the rest of the plate — I was thinking a lemon sorbet might have been better suited. I don't want to be too critical but I think the presentation could have been better — it just seemed to be a bit all over the place and not particularly elegant.

Our male service waiter was friendly, young and eager to please but unfortunately there's still room for improvement as we noticed a couple of the neighbouring tables throughout the night weren't cleared of their dirty napkins and glasses for quite a while after diners had left. Also our glasses of water were never topped up during the night — I'd expect the service in fine dining restaurants to look out for this. Trying to grab the attention of the waitstaff for the bill was very frustrating too as we felt rather neglected and invisible towards the end of the night.

SNAPSHOT REVIEW:

PROS: View (request window when booking)

CONS: Service should be better, neighbouring tables not cleared promptly

MUST TRY: Bollinger, Tortellini of Spanner crab and sea scallops

RATING: 1 Hat (2010 SMH Good Guide Awards)

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Complimentary bread

NV Bollinger 'Special Cuvée' Champagne $32/glass

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Amuse-bouche of Potato and Leek Veloute with Lemon and Chive Chantilly

2008 Mahi Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ $13/glass

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Tortellini of Spanner crab and sea scallops with peas, confit tomatoes and shellfish bisque $27

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Ceviche of pink Snapper with avocado mousse, baby celery leaves and lime vanilla vinaigrette $27

Thilmere duck breast with potato gratin, braised endive and macerated prunes $40

Roasted and braised Castricum lamb with eggplant, white asparagus and Kefir cream $38

Buttered mashed potatoes with roasted garlic $10

Complimentary dessert cleanser Pineapple Pannacotta

Valrhona chocolate pavé wth espresso anglaise and bitter coulis $18

Emaux of summer berries, lemon curd and Tonka bean ice cream $18

Complimentary petit fours

2003 Château La Rame Sainte Croix du Mont Bordeaux, France $15/glass, 2006 De Bortoli 'Noble One' Botrytis Semillon Riverina NSW $15/glass

Entree menu

Mains and sides menu

Dessert and cheese menu

Afternoon and evening views of Sydney Harbour from window

Table setting and dining area

Noticed two neighboring tables not cleared for at least 30+ minutes

Our glasses of water unfortunately never refilled during the night

Bill

Shangri-la rises above The Rocks and Circular Quay

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