Masterclass with Peter Gilmore at Quay, The Rocks, Sydney (16 Apr 2012)

Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Sydney NSW 2000
http://www.quay.com.au

The Quay is in the cooking

Thanks to Katrina Parker from Open Haus for inviting me to the Winter Produce Masterclass with Chef Peter Gilmore at Quay. Ever since October 2008 when I first visited Quay for a Let's Do Lunch I've been wanting to revisit but haven't had the chance. The event was hosted by Electrolux but surprisingly they didn't do a hard sell on their kitchen equipment which Peter was using like the Combination Steam Oven and Induction Cooktop. Perhaps the equipment is so impressive it simply sells itself? Peter first showed how to cook his Savoury Gouda custard with Autumn mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts which had nice earthy flavours although I wasn't quite sure about the addition of the hazelnuts since I already thought there was enough crunch in the dish from the tasty Jerusalem artichoke crisps — but that's just me. Next he demonstrated the Slow braised crisp skinned pork belly with prunes, sherry and cauliflower cream. I was surprised how well the prunes worked in the dish and it's probably best not to ask how much butter was used in the silky smooth cauliflower cream. I learnt some practical tips on how to cook the pork belly to achieve the much sort after crisp skin. If you're interested here's the recipes for these two dishes.

After the cooking demonstration it was time for a five course dinner menu with matching wines. The crusty Sourdough bread from Sonoma was very good and I loved the creamy butter they were using. The first dish was Salad of rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, goat's curd which was beautifully presented sitting on a bed of pomegranate molasses soil and fit for any vege lover to appreciate its unique flavours. I thought the 2010 Pennyweight Gamay was a great match to dish. Next was the Gently poached southern rock lobster, hand caught Tasmanian squid with a silky smooth base of 'lobster velvet' and noticeable seafood flavours coming through in the golden tapioca although I had trouble working out the pieces of lobster from the squid with each bite. Well matched with the 2010 Krinklewood Chardonnay. The Roasted partridge breast came with new season white walnuts possessing a delicate crunch. I wasn't a huge fan of the dish but wondered if a sauce would have persuaded me otherwise. Also I still really can't appreciate what freshly shaved truffle should taste like — it always seems too subtle on my palate.

When the Poached Wagyu beef, oxtail, morel, black pudding, farro, buckwheat, hazelnut, ezekiel crumbs was served I thought it looked like a chocolate fondant which put me off my taste game. It unfortunately was my least favourite dish — sorry Peter. I'm sure there was a lot of cooking technique in it but the outer crumbs texture really didn't appeal to me with the tender beef. I think I would have just preferred a nicely cooked wagyu (from the grill) with a flavoursome red wine jus, silky potato cream and some exquisitely cut seasonal vegetables with an edible flower thrown in for good measure. The dessert on the other hand was a winner for me making it a favourite of the night. Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream had flavours that all work really well together and apparently was a new dessert added to the menu just this week. I loved the addition of the pomelo giving it a pleasant popping texture and taste. For spectacular harbour views it's hard to beat Quay on location and if you get either Miori Shino or Kristian Savio as your waiter you'll be in great hands but I really wish they'd do something about their toilets. Guys, your tackle will be on show with all those mirrors around you when someone walks in unless you seek haven in the cubicle.

Masterclass video highlights

Other visits to Quay:

• 16 Apr 2012 - Masterclass with Peter Gilmore + 5 course dinner

• 23 Oct 2008 - Let’s Do Lunch

SNAPSHOT REVIEW:

PROS: Quality ingredients, Spectacular harbour views, Interesting dishes, Professional and knowledgeable service (Miori & Kristian), Very good wines, Function space available, Peter Gilmore seems like a very down-to-earth celebrity chef that still cooks in the kitchen most days of the week

CONS: Those toilets need a serious design overhaul in my books, Expensive, Being amongst the top 50 restaurants in the world I'm thinking you'll need to book well in advance, The sound of the cutlery on the stone-like plates was a bit like nails on a chalkboard

MUST TRY: Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse with fresh mangosteen, Revisiting one day to try more of the menu when I can afford it

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Welcome drink of Bollinger — pretty special

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Canapés to start

Cooking demonstration courtesy of Electrolux

Savoury Gouda custard with Autumn mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts

Slow braised crisp skinned pork belly with prunes, sherry and cauliflower cream

5 course menu

Sourdough bread from Sonoma

Salad of rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, goat's curd, pomegranate molasses, violet

WORTH TRYING :-)

2010 Pennyweight Gamay, Beechworth Vic

Gently poached southern rock lobster, hand caught Tasmanian squid, golden tapioca, lobster velvet

WORTH TRYING :-)

2010 Krinklewood Chardonnay, Hunter Valley NSW

Roasted partridge breast, steamed truffle brioche, confit egg yolk, new season white walnuts, fumet of Vin Jaune

2010 Thick as Thieves Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley Vic

Poached Wagyu beef, oxtail, morel, black pudding, farro, buckwheat, hazelnut, ezekiel crumbs

2009 Caillard Mataro, Barossa Valley SA

Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Pomelo adds a nice texture to the dessert — not listed on the menu

2011 Brangayne Late Harvest Riesling, Orange NSW

Flat white

Hot chocolate

Seating with a view of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge

Dinner tweeting is such a common sight these days

Table setting

Normal a la carte menu $165 per person for 4 courses

toilet sink — seems way too busy in design
toilet really awkward and uncomfortable placement of mirrors against urinal, too on show

Goodie Bag Quay Recipe Book including herb seeds and petit fours chocolates

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