Simon Food Favourites: Harbour Bridge

05 July 2019

Chuuka, Pyrmont (3 July 3019)

Jones Bay Wharf, 19-21 Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont NSW 2009
https://www.chuuka.com.au/
https://www.instagram.com/chuukasydney/

Chuuka Chuuka Boom Boom

“Chinese flavours. Japanese precision. Victor Liong and Chase Kojima have joined forces to create food like you’ve never seen before. What is CHUUKA? CHUUKA is marching to the beat of your own drum. CHUUKA is a world of contrasts that defies categorisation. CHUUKA is CHUUKA.”

Restaurant life looking great matched with good service, a lovely view of the Harbour Bridge and a promising menu at this former Flying Fish restaurant location. I fondly remember back in the good old days of blogging when tweetups were a thing.

It's their first day and my preference for the Wood cocktail of barrel-aged & hickory-smoked shiso umeshu, Bulleit rye, Campari ($19) is unfortunately not yet available so opted for the Japanese Gin & Tonic ($16) using a Japanese style gin from Cambridge Distillery with juniper, shiso leaf, sesame seeds, cucumber, sansho and yuzu. A lovely drop but I'm not a fan of the glassware style as the ice tends to fall onto your face when you get to the end of your drink unless you're using a straw. I much prefer my gin and tonics in tumbler style glasses for a more relaxing drink experience #firstworldproblems. To start Pacific oyster, bonito soy yuzu, spring onion oil ($5) have a tasty dressing that makes up for them being preshucked. Oyster lovers will still appreciate the balance of flavours to compliment the oyster's creaminess.

CHUUKA ‘Ebi Chilli’, stir-fried prawn, chilli miso butter, Japanese milk buns ($42) comes with 6 large prawns. You'll also get 6 milk buns. I was given 4 in this instance but could have asked for the other 2. I would have loved to take the left over buns home for the kids but unfortunately takeaway not allowed at the restaurant. Sauce was tasty with a pleasant hum of chilli. The perfectly soft buns served warm are handy to mop up the sauce. Prawn texture wasn't quite as firm as preferred on this occasion but after mentioning to the chef he has since made amendments in the kitchen to rectify for the better. Good use of the cleaned out prawn heads which have been fried to a decent crisp for added texture and to enjoy eating whole. Dish best shared between at least 2-3 people.

Chase’s ‘Tempura Yuzu Chicken’, dried chilli, sweet & sour yuzu sauce ($24) is apparently one of their signature dishes. Tasty flavour reminding me of a sweet & sour sauce with some chilli heat but it's not as angry as it looks unless you bite on the dried chillis. Pleasant crisp batter that adds some crunch to the dish. My only suggestion would be keeping the chicken pieces a touch smaller to make it easier to pickup and eat with the chopsticks gracefully. A good one to share between 3-4 people.

The menu is designed to share and dishes are served in the order they're ready. I think best suited for dining as a table of 4 to try a few things. Wine by the glass starts from $13 for whites and $16 for reds. Decor looking good for business lunches but families seem welcome as well when I spot a baby change table available in the toilet.

18 April 2012

Masterclass with Peter Gilmore at Quay, The Rocks, Sydney (16 Apr 2012)

Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Sydney NSW 2000
http://www.quay.com.au

The Quay is in the cooking

Thanks to Katrina Parker from Open Haus for inviting me to the Winter Produce Masterclass with Chef Peter Gilmore at Quay. Ever since October 2008 when I first visited Quay for a Let's Do Lunch I've been wanting to revisit but haven't had the chance. The event was hosted by Electrolux but surprisingly they didn't do a hard sell on their kitchen equipment which Peter was using like the Combination Steam Oven and Induction Cooktop. Perhaps the equipment is so impressive it simply sells itself? Peter first showed how to cook his Savoury Gouda custard with Autumn mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts which had nice earthy flavours although I wasn't quite sure about the addition of the hazelnuts since I already thought there was enough crunch in the dish from the tasty Jerusalem artichoke crisps — but that's just me. Next he demonstrated the Slow braised crisp skinned pork belly with prunes, sherry and cauliflower cream. I was surprised how well the prunes worked in the dish and it's probably best not to ask how much butter was used in the silky smooth cauliflower cream. I learnt some practical tips on how to cook the pork belly to achieve the much sort after crisp skin. If you're interested here's the recipes for these two dishes.

After the cooking demonstration it was time for a five course dinner menu with matching wines. The crusty Sourdough bread from Sonoma was very good and I loved the creamy butter they were using. The first dish was Salad of rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, goat's curd which was beautifully presented sitting on a bed of pomegranate molasses soil and fit for any vege lover to appreciate its unique flavours. I thought the 2010 Pennyweight Gamay was a great match to dish. Next was the Gently poached southern rock lobster, hand caught Tasmanian squid with a silky smooth base of 'lobster velvet' and noticeable seafood flavours coming through in the golden tapioca although I had trouble working out the pieces of lobster from the squid with each bite. Well matched with the 2010 Krinklewood Chardonnay. The Roasted partridge breast came with new season white walnuts possessing a delicate crunch. I wasn't a huge fan of the dish but wondered if a sauce would have persuaded me otherwise. Also I still really can't appreciate what freshly shaved truffle should taste like — it always seems too subtle on my palate.

When the Poached Wagyu beef, oxtail, morel, black pudding, farro, buckwheat, hazelnut, ezekiel crumbs was served I thought it looked like a chocolate fondant which put me off my taste game. It unfortunately was my least favourite dish — sorry Peter. I'm sure there was a lot of cooking technique in it but the outer crumbs texture really didn't appeal to me with the tender beef. I think I would have just preferred a nicely cooked wagyu (from the grill) with a flavoursome red wine jus, silky potato cream and some exquisitely cut seasonal vegetables with an edible flower thrown in for good measure. The dessert on the other hand was a winner for me making it a favourite of the night. Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream had flavours that all work really well together and apparently was a new dessert added to the menu just this week. I loved the addition of the pomelo giving it a pleasant popping texture and taste. For spectacular harbour views it's hard to beat Quay on location and if you get either Miori Shino or Kristian Savio as your waiter you'll be in great hands but I really wish they'd do something about their toilets. Guys, your tackle will be on show with all those mirrors around you when someone walks in unless you seek haven in the cubicle.

Masterclass video highlights

Other visits to Quay:

• 16 Apr 2012 - Masterclass with Peter Gilmore + 5 course dinner

• 23 Oct 2008 - Let’s Do Lunch

SNAPSHOT REVIEW:

PROS: Quality ingredients, Spectacular harbour views, Interesting dishes, Professional and knowledgeable service (Miori & Kristian), Very good wines, Function space available, Peter Gilmore seems like a very down-to-earth celebrity chef that still cooks in the kitchen most days of the week

CONS: Those toilets need a serious design overhaul in my books, Expensive, Being amongst the top 50 restaurants in the world I'm thinking you'll need to book well in advance, The sound of the cutlery on the stone-like plates was a bit like nails on a chalkboard

MUST TRY: Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse with fresh mangosteen, Revisiting one day to try more of the menu when I can afford it

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