Bistro Papillon: French, CBD Sydney (1 Oct 2010)

98 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000
http://www.bistropapillon.com.au

A slice of France in Sydney

There seems to be a good range of French restaurants now in Sydney and Bistro Papillon would have to be one of the favourites I've come across so far where it's hard to pick a meal from the menu because they all sound so good and authentic. Quench your thirst with a French Kroenbourg beer ($8) or quaffable and reasonably priced French 2009 Gros Manseng Sauvignon Blanc ($8) and 2005 Chateau Riotor Rose ($7). Substantial sized Grilled Goats Cheese Toast with a Walnut and Pear Salad ($14) is easy to share as an entree or the smooth Homemade Chicken Liver Pate, Cornichons, Red Capsicum Relish and Baguette ($15) although I find it unusual to see a side salad of tomato, lettuce, egg and the capsicum relish. A hearty yet high priced Roasted Confit of Duck Leg with a White Bean Cassoulet ($35) has nice flavours and there's no shortage of prawns in the Fresh Egg Linguine, Green Prawns, Tomatoes, Baby Spinach, Garlic, Chilli and Olive Oil ($29). The dish envy of the night went to the Braised Rabbit Papadelle [Pappardelle] with Mushroom, Pancetta, Herbs and Preserved Lemon ($30) with lovely citrus notes to help cut through the dish. I'm always tempted to try the Coq au Vin ($33) from the menu which comes in a hearty red wine sauce which I order with some decently cooked fries as my included side.

For dessert the Mousse au Chocolat ($12) is served with Grand Marnier Créme Anglaise which you self-pour on top and is one of the better ones I've had around town. I can't resist ordering the Classic Crème Brûlée ($11) and thankfully it comes with a perfectly crunchy caramelised topping although was a lot more custardy than I've had before and I usually prefer it with more vanilla bean. The French service was friendly and welcoming and managed the restaurant as efficiently as possible although they probably could have done with an extra hand to help attend to customers needs. There's attention to detail with nice thick paper towels in the toilet and French posters scattered amongst the walls and even a humorous beret on the coffee machine. The decor was cosy and atmospheric and I'd happily return to try other dishes from the menu when I get the chance.

SNAPSHOT REVIEW:

PROS: Authentic French dishes, Centrally located in the city, Friendly and passionate service, Nice decor, Good selection of affordable wines

CONS: French cooking means a lot of butter, Service can be a little slow when busy

MUST TRY: Braised Rabbit Papadelle, Crème Brûlée

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Salad de Chevre Chaud: Grilled Goats Cheese Toast with a Walnut and Pear Salad ($14)

Pate de Foie de Volaille: Homemade Chicken Liver Pate, Cornichons, Red Capsicum Relish and Baguette ($15)

Cassoulet de Canard Confit: Roasted Confit of Duck Leg with a White Bean Cassoulet ($35)

Pates Fraiches aux Gambas: Fresh Egg Linguine, Green Prawns, Tomatoes, Baby Spinach, Garlic, Chilli and Olive Oil ($29)

Papadelle au Lapin Façon Chasseur: Braised Rabbit Papadelle with Mushroom, Pancetta, Herbs and Preserved Lemon ($30)

SIMON FAVOURITE :-)

Coq au Vin: A French Classic, Corn Fed Chicken Casserole cooked in Red wine with Bacon, Mushroom, Onion and Thyme ($33) with side of fries

Classic Crème Brûlée ($11)

Mousse au Chocolat served with Grand Marnier Créme Anglaise ($12)

Kroenbourg beer ($8)

2009 Gros Manseng Sauvignon Blanc, Alain Brumont, France ($8)

2005 Chateau Riotor Rose, Cote de Provence, France ($7)

Bill $214 for 4 people

Posters from France

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Coq au vin: SBS Recipe by Gabriel Gaté (23 July 2009)

Simple & Easy French Classic

Yes, I know, I do seem to eat out a lot but sometimes I challenge myself to cook something different at home. I'm very much a kitchen novice compared to the likes of Not Quite Nigella and A Table for Two but if a recipe is simple enough, doesn't include expensive fancy ingredients and I have the time then I'll have the courage and patience to give it a go. I vividly remember when Aaron tried to cook coq au vin on Masterchef Episode 7 I thought to myself that I had no idea how I'd cook a coq au vin. He's attempt "was declared a failure by the judges. Gary said it wasn’t coq au vin at all but red wine poached chicken, which was dry. Matt said it looked pretty but all the components were a miss and people don’t eat food just for its looks" — so I thought it must be quite difficult.

Doing a quick search for coq au vin recipes I came across this simple one by SBS created by Gabriel Gaté which includes a cooking video. Ingredients are basic and preparation is simple so I gave it a go and found it very easy to follow. I couldn't find small onions so substituted for French eschallots, which are a bugger to peel by the way, and I didn't have any cognac so skipped the flame which could have been scary yet fun I think. In the end it turned out well and I didn't poison myself so that's a bonus! I'm hoping to try my hand at Bouillabaisse when I get the time and motivation.

The Preparation

Onions, bacon and mushrooms cooked and set aside

Cooking the chicken with herbs and red wine

Onions, bacon and mushrooms combined with chicken

The Wine

Voyager Estate: Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2003

The Dish

Coq au vin served with potato mash, carrots and french beans, Chef Leong :-)

The Dessert

Crème caramel

Courtesy of Divine Classic

The herb garden addition

Thyme from fruit market $3.95

The Recipe

Serves 4

Ingredients
20 small onions (pickling onions)
A few sprigs of parsley
A sprig of thyme
1 bay leaf
50 g butter
About 100 g bacon, cut into small strips
About 250 g mushrooms
8 chicken pieces on the bone, e.g. 4 drumsticks and 4 thighs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 30 ml cognac
1 large tbsp plain flour
About 400 ml red wine
1 clove garlic
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp chopped parsley

Preparation
Place peeled onions in a saucepan with cold water. Bring to the boil and boil for 2 minutes, then drain.

Tie the parsley, thyme and bay leaf together using kitchen string.

Heat half the butter in a wide saucepan on medium heat and brown onions for a few minutes. Add bacon and stir well for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook for 4-5 minutes until mushrooms are soft. Transfer onions, bacon and mushrooms to a dish.

Heat remaining butter in the same pan and brown chicken pieces on high heat for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir well.

Drain excess fat into a bowl and discard.
Add cognac to pan and flame the chicken by either lighting a match or by tilting the pan towards the gas flame. Stir well, then sprinkle flour over the chicken.

Add wine and shake the pan. Add herbs, garlic and tomato paste and stir well. Bring to a slow simmer, cover with a lid and cook for about 20 minutes.

Turn chicken pieces over. Add mushrooms, bacon and onions, cover with a lid and simmer for a further 10 minutes.

Check the seasoning, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.